The Old Bell Hotel - Cotswolds
- Nick, Editor
- Sep 10
- 6 min read
Updated: 1 day ago
England’s “oldest hotel” reborn with country class
Article summary>>
In this article, you will get our unbiased, independent review and thoughts on The Old Bell Hotel in the Cotswolds.
Rooms & suites
Food & Drink
Amenities
Service
Vibe
Location
Thoughts
Booking
The Old Bell Hotel Cotswolds has that effortless, "I've been here forever" posture that only truly old buildings possess. In this case, the posture is well earned: the guesthouse that stood on this very spot was receiving travellers as early as 1220. The Old Bell is a Grade I listed building, its bones stitched from the abbey masonry, and it’s long claimed, with ample local lore to back it, to be England’s oldest hotel.
Today, the story has taken on a new chapter. After a loving, personality-forward revival by owner Texan antiques dealer Whit Hanks and wife Kim, the Old Bell feels like the Cotswolds done with a wink. It’s still all oak and mullions and leaded glass, but there's also fanciful wallpapers, well-chosen antiques from their travels, and little moments of levity that bring it into the modern day with a warm, homely feeling. I’ve stayed in a lot of country houses; few manage to be both deeply historic and genuinely fun, yet The Old Bell does it with ease.
First impressions: The Old Bell Hotel Cotswolds
There’s an instant sense of place as you swing into Abbey Row and clock the flagstone path, the wisteria, the parasols lining the front terrace. The Abbey is a literal neighbour, just a few paces from the door. Inside, you’re greeted by a blaze of character: panelled lounges, a library that invites lingering, and at the heart of it all, the 1220 Bar, anchored by an early 13th-century hooded stone fireplace that is believed to be one of the earliest domestic flue chimneys in England. Pull up a stool, order something stirred, not shaken, and you’ll drift into eight centuries of hospitality. Service has the right lightness of touch, friendly, welcoming and attentive, not over the top, just how you want it.
Rooms:
The hotel has 34 bedrooms, spread through original and more recent additions. My “Character” room had beams and a Tudor feel; a colleague’s “Classic” felt more Georgian in its proportions; however, the Master Suites are the hotel's showstoppers, so be sure to choose to taste. Expect tactile wallpapers, plush bedding, antique finds and proper mod-cons, which make the rooms a pleasure to stay in. If you need a little more elbow room, or you’re planning a group weekend, the hotel also operates self-catering Townhouse Suites within a short walk, now expanded across six addresses on Abbey Row with dedicated parking and hotel support.
A note for dog owners: the Old Bell is genuinely dog-friendly, with designated bedrooms (wood floors, bowls, beds) and a sensible policy that keeps everyone happy. There’s a nightly supplement for canine companions and an occasional package where dogs stay free; ask when booking. They’re welcome in most lounges and bars (though not in the main restaurant)
Eating & drinking:
Food here is more than a supporting act. The signature dining room is Abbey Row, a high-design space where seasonal British cooking is delivered with flair, think refined, locally-sourced plates that earn the hotel’s AA 2 Rosettes. It’s the sort of menu that makes you wish you’d saved space for pudding; the sort of service that breezily talks you into the wine you didn’t know you wanted. If you’re the tasting-menu sort, there’s often a chef’s menu in the evenings; if not, the à la carte stays happily grounded.
At the 1220 Bar, the mood is clubby and convivial, with classic cocktails and a quietly educational wine list. When the weather smiles, Tyger Bar, a conservatory-garden affair, opens for something more casual (burgers, fish and chips, spritzes under the parasols), with the kind of sunny optimism that has you ordering “just one more.” And yes, there’s afternoon tea worth packing elasticated trousers for; popular with locals, properly seasonal, and set in handsome rooms that make photos almost compulsory.
The vibe:
Some country hotels lean stately; others skew rustic. The Old Bell sits in the sweet spot between an inn by history and a boutique hotel by temperament. In the morning, boots trample off toward the river or the Abbey’s lawns. Evenings begin with a martini by that ancient fireplace and end with a nightcap in the library, where you might trade notes on the Abbey’s Norman carvings with the couple at the next table.
Wellness & extras:
There isn’t a full-blown spa here, and it doesn’t need one, but the hotel will point you to a nearby gym for complimentary workouts, and you can borrow umbrellas or wellies when the weather decides to be British.
Where you are: a market town with a story to tell
Malmesbury is not just any pretty Cotswold town; it’s England’s oldest borough, a hillside of country lanes with the Abbey at its summit and river walks curling away from its base. Malmesbury Abbey itself is unmissable: part-ruin, part-parish church, very much alive with music and community. From the hotel’s front door to the south porch is a mere stone's throw.
Across the lane, Abbey House Manor Gardens open on select days as the new custodians restore them, a pleasant wander if you time it right. And a short drive away, Westonbirt, The National Arboretum, is a riot of Japanese maples come autumn, but lovely in any season.
Day-trip's:
Highgrove Gardens, the private gardens of Their Majesties near Tetbury, bookable on guided tours, a gentle 20 minutes by car.
Cotswold Water Park, with lakes and a sandy “beach” area for families, about 25 minutes away, lovely day if the weather's good.
Lacock, Castle Combe, Tetbury, an easy day for a heritage hit and tearoom fix.
Getting there:
From London, the swiftest public-transport combo is train Paddington to Chippenham or Paddington to Kemble, then a 15–20-minute taxi to the hotel. Drivers will exit the M4 at J17; park at the rear.
Notes:
Room to request if you like patina: one of the “Character” rooms in the main house. Higher categories bring more space.
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If you’re bringing the dog: mention it on booking for one of the dog-friendly rooms, and plan meals in the bar/lounge or Tyger rather than the main restaurant. There’s an additional nightly fee unless you’ve bagged a promo.
If you’re celebrating: book the tasting menu at Abbey Row and an afternoon tea the following day, switch the guilt off and the camera on.
If you love a good ghost story: ask at the bar for a Grey Lady cocktail, a house nod to a friendly resident spirit and a local bit of fun.
Why it works:
Because it refuses to choose between serious heritage and spirited hospitality. The building is a tribute to English history, medieval open fireplaces, Tudor layers, Edwardian remodelling, and yet you’ll never feel as though you’re in a museum. The Old Bell is comfortable, confident, and clear about what it is: a storied coaching inn that’s become a one-stop base for modern Cotswolding. It really is a gem.
Pros & Cons:
Pros:
Unbeatable location next to Malmesbury Abbey; step-from-bed to medieval stone.
34 individually designed rooms plus six self-catering townhouses for families and groups.
Abbey Row restaurant holds AA 2 Rosettes; cocktails and classics at the 1220 Bar; garden-bright Tyger Bar for casual bites.
Genuinely dog-friendly with sensible rooming and access policies.
On-site parking; access to a nearby gym if you need an endorphin top-up.
Cons:
No full spa; wellness is off-site and low-key.
Heritage layout means some rooms have sloping floors and idiosyncratic sizes; if you want big windows and symmetry, request accordingly.
The most coveted dinner slots and Townhouse Suites book early on peak weekends; plan ahead.
Key facts at a glance:
Location - Abbey Row, Malmesbury, Wiltshire (SN16 0BW), beside Malmesbury Abbey; easy M4 access (J17). Nearest rail: Kemble (15 min) or Chippenham (20 min) by taxi.
Hotel rating - AA 4-star hotel; AA 2 Rosettes for Abbey Row; AA Breakfast Award
Hotel vibe - Historic coaching-inn soul with witty, maximalist design touches; convivial bars; smart-casual dining
Food & drink - Abbey Row (à la carte, tasting menu, Sunday lunch); 1220 Bar (cocktails by a 13th-century open fire); Tyger Bar (seasonal, casual, conservatory garden). Afternoon tea daily with seasonal menus.
Hotel amenities - Lounges and library; on-site parking; dog-friendly rooms and public spaces; event spaces; complimentary access to a nearby gym; umbrellas/wellies to borrow.
How many rooms - 34 bedrooms in the hotel; six Townhouse Suites on Abbey Row (self-catering, with hotel support).
Pricing - Typical double rooms fluctuate with season; rates from £195 B&B, with some from £140 midweek/off-peak. Afternoon tea from £34–£38 per person, depending on the day. For more information and to book a stay, click here
Location recommendations & attractions:
Malmesbury Abbey (two minutes on foot).
Abbey House Manor Gardens (select open days).
Westonbirt Arboretum (6–7 miles; autumn colour spectacular).
Highgrove Gardens (booked tours, near Tetbury).
Cotswold Water Park / Lake 32 (family lake days).
Bottom line:
The Old Bell is a grand old soul that’s discovered a fresh voice, part abbey guesthouse, part lively townhouse, all heart. If your Cotswolds wish list reads “history, good food, a martini by the fire, and somewhere pretty to walk it all off,” consider this your countryside stop.
All hotels & resorts on The Five Star Edit are independently selected by our editors. However, we may receive a small commission from advertisers when using our affiliate links.
The Old Bell Hotel (Cotswolds) Review 2025
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